Melasma is one of the most stubborn skin concerns to treat. It tends to appear as larger patches of darker skin, often on the cheeks, forehead and upper lip, and it has a frustrating habit of fading with care and then returning, particularly in summer. The good news is that, with the right approach, melasma can be managed well.
At our Mayfair clinic, consultant dermatologist Dr Jinah Yoo treats melasma carefully and realistically, because it responds far better to a measured plan than to aggressive treatment. This guide explains what melasma is, why it flares in summer, and how it can be managed.
What Is Melasma?
Melasma is a form of pigmentation that produces larger, often symmetrical patches of brown or grey-brown discolouration. It most commonly affects the face, particularly the cheeks, forehead, bridge of the nose and upper lip.
It is far more common in women than men, and it is closely linked to hormones and sun exposure. Melasma is harmless to your health, but because it appears on the face and can be persistent, many people find it affects their confidence.
Why Melasma Flares in Summer
Ultraviolet light is one of the strongest triggers for melasma, which is why so many people notice it worsening through spring and summer. UV exposure stimulates the pigment-producing cells in the skin, deepening existing patches and provoking new ones.
Heat also plays a part. Melasma can be aggravated not only by sunlight but by warmth itself, which is why it can flare in hot weather even with sun protection. This is why year-round, and especially summer, sun protection is central to managing the condition rather than an optional extra.
What Triggers Melasma?
Several factors contribute to melasma, often in combination:
- Sun exposure – the single biggest trigger, deepening and spreading the patches.
- Hormones – pregnancy, the contraceptive pill and hormonal changes are strongly linked to melasma.
- Heat – warmth alone can aggravate melasma, independent of UV.
- Genetics – a family tendency makes melasma more likely.
- Skin of colour – melasma is more common, and often more stubborn, in deeper skin tones.
Melasma and Pregnancy
Melasma is so commonly linked to pregnancy that it is sometimes called the mask of pregnancy. The hormonal changes of pregnancy can trigger melasma, often across the cheeks and forehead, and it may appear for the first time during these months.
For some women, pregnancy-related melasma fades gradually after the hormonal changes settle. For others it persists and needs management. Treatment options during pregnancy and breastfeeding are more limited, so the focus is usually on diligent sun protection and gentle care, with other treatments considered later. Your dermatologist will tailor advice to your circumstances.
Why Melasma Is Different from Other Pigmentation
Melasma behaves differently from sun spots or post-inflammatory marks. It often sits deeper in the skin, it is driven by hormones as well as sun, and it is inherently prone to returning. This makes it more challenging to treat than simpler pigmentation.
Crucially, melasma is easily made worse by overly aggressive treatment. Heat and trauma to the skin can provoke it, which means some treatments used for other types of pigmentation are not suitable here. Understanding this difference is the foundation of treating melasma well.
How Melasma Is Treated
Melasma is managed rather than cured, using a combination approach built around protection and gentle, consistent treatment:
- Sun protection – daily, high-level protection is the most important element, without which no treatment will hold.
- Prescription topical treatments – ingredients that reduce pigment production and support gradual fading.
- Gentle in-clinic treatments – carefully selected options such as laser toning using devices appropriate for melasma, built up slowly.
- Maintenance – ongoing care to keep results, because melasma tends to return without it.
The emphasis is always on a gradual, layered plan. Rushing melasma treatment tends to backfire.
Why a Careful Approach Matters
This is the most important point about melasma. Aggressive lasers, strong peels and heat-based treatments can all worsen it, sometimes significantly. Because melasma is provoked by heat and inflammation, the wrong treatment can trigger a rebound that is harder to settle than the original patches.
For this reason, device selection and treatment strength must be chosen specifically with melasma in mind, and tailored further for skin of colour. A proper assessment before treatment is essential.
What to Expect
Treatment begins with a consultation, where your melasma is assessed and a realistic plan agreed. Improvement is gradual, usually measured over months rather than weeks, and it depends heavily on consistent sun protection and maintenance.
Your dermatologist will be honest about what to expect. The aim is meaningful, well-maintained improvement and good control of flares, rather than a one-off cure.
The Dr Jinah Yoo Approach
Melasma rewards patience and the right technique. As a GMC-registered consultant dermatologist, Dr Jinah Yoo treats it with care:
- Melasma is assessed and distinguished from other pigmentation before treatment.
- Treatments are chosen specifically for melasma, with extra care in skin of colour.
- A gentle, layered plan is used to avoid provoking a rebound.
- Sun protection and maintenance are built into the plan from the start.
You can read more about Dr Jinah Yoo and her approach to pigmentation across all skin types.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best treatment for melasma in the UK?
There is no single best treatment, because melasma responds best to a combination approach rather than one method. Daily sun protection, prescription topical treatment and carefully chosen in-clinic treatments, tailored to your skin, tend to give the most reliable results.
What is the most successful treatment for melasma?
Success with melasma comes from consistency and the right combination, not from a single procedure. Sun protection is the foundation, supported by gentle treatment built up gradually. Aggressive approaches often make melasma worse, so a measured plan is usually the most successful.
Can melasma be removed permanently?
Melasma can be significantly improved and well controlled, but it cannot be guaranteed to go permanently. It is a chronic, recurring condition driven by hormones and sun, so ongoing management and sun protection are needed to maintain results.
What do Koreans do for melasma?
Korean dermatology tends to favour gentle, consistent treatment, gradual laser toning and a strong emphasis on daily sun protection, rather than aggressive one-off procedures. This measured approach suits melasma well, since the condition is easily provoked by heat and trauma.
Does melasma go away on its own?
Sometimes melasma linked to a temporary trigger, such as pregnancy, fades once hormones settle. More often it persists or returns, particularly with ongoing sun exposure. Because it is unpredictable, it is worth having melasma assessed so you can manage it rather than waiting and risking it deepening.
Arranging a Consultation
If you are dealing with melasma and want a careful, realistic plan, the best starting point is an accurate assessment. You are welcome to book a consultation with Dr Jinah Yoo at our Mayfair clinic.